Return to the Avenida: Part 5

 

We are two weeks away from Carnival, and the time has come to take part in Vila’s Ensaio Tecnico (technical rehearsal) at the mecca of Samba – the world-famous Sambadrome.

The Sambadrome was designed in 1984 and constructed in a record 110 days by the legendary architect Oscar Niemeyer as a purpose-built, open-air stadium for Carnival season, (whilst being used as a main thoroughfare in Rio’s city at all other times!)

Before this, Samba schools held their annual competitions along Avenida Presidente Vargas (Rio CBD’s main street) with temporary stands and stages erected. As the parades grew in popularity and size, the need for a bigger, safer venue was apparent, and the Sambadrome was brought to life!

Tech rehearsals on the avenue are reserved for first division schools only, and each school is given two evening timeslots in the weeks before Carnival so that they can test the lighting, sound and timing of their parades. Floats are not allowed at tech (as they are too difficult to transport to the busy back streets and cause traffic chaos!), so only performers (up to 5000 per school!) and the harmonia (time marshals/school directors) are allowed to take part in these.

The tech rehearsals are open to the public to watch, and are often more lively than the actual parade as they are free (most locals simply can’t afford the high ticket entry prices for the main event), so this means that the stands are overflowing with excited revellers and you get a glimpse of what it will feel like to perform in front of an audience of over 100,000 Samba-lovers!

 

 

Up until now, Vila’s street rehearsals have tried to mimic the length and width of the Sambadrome, and the duration and intensity of the parade, but nothing can prepare you for the awe-inspiring sight of “Sapucai” (as the locals call it), nor for how long it truly takes to dance along it from start to finish – I liken it to a Samba marathon!

Usually for tech rehearsals, schools have their members wear a school t-shirt, white shorts/pants and white runners (as parade outfits are still being furiously made by hundreds of seamstresses working around the clock to get them ready in time). This tech uniform is an absolute dream for everyone as it’s super comfortable, cool and easy to dance in.

For the passista aisle, we have been asked to supply our own denim shorts (which will be embellished by the school) and silver heels, and we are given a Vila tank top. I am thrilled that I can wear my trusted favourite heels (and not some random, oddly made pair given to me at the last minute that will almost certainly give me blisters and cause my feet to bleed), plus I can choose a pair of shorts that actually fit my body shape and I can dance in.

Finally some luck with our uniform!

 

 

Although the Sambodromo is only 700 metres in length, it takes our school 65-75 minutes to progress along the avenue and finish the parade. The passista aisle dances full speed for the majority of this (think at least 150 BPM!) and the most important thing besides dancing and singing your heart out is to keep in line with your team, as you are marked on your formations.

It’s an incredible feeling to be dancing to live drumming and look up into the grand stands to see people cheering you on and singing the words of your school’s anthem with you, but you can also get lost in the moment and left behind in an instant.

Despite wanting to fully immerse myself in the magic of music and dance, and the joy of having finally made it here, I need to stay focused on my position within the aisle, and ensure I keep up, otherwise I’ll be screamed at by both the time marshals and my fellow dancers.

Thankfully, we all worked together as a team and were able to stay aligned for most of the parade (as can be seen in a photo of our aisle below!)

 

After the intense emotional and physical stresses of the last few months of street rehearsals, this tech rehearsal was a pleasant surprise and I’m shocked to reach the end of the avenue with my make up still intact, my feet not bleeding, and a little bit of energy left to strike a pose!

All of the training must be paying off! Bring on round two!